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  Yates Screamers
  Yates Screamers
 
Yates Screamers, Scream Aids and Ice Screams

Item# Item Name Our Price Qty Add
yat605 Yates Ice Screams $18.00 (Out of Stock)
yat610 Yates Scream Aids $18.00
yat600 Yates Screamers $16.50
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Features:
  • SCREAMERS

    Function:

  • Shock absorbing sling designed to reduce peak loads in
  • any climbing system!!

  • * Multi-functional energy absorbing device. Screamers
  • will provide added protection in climbing and rescue situations.
  • Screamers not only absorb energy directly because of the
  • stitch ripping effect, they also allow your rope to absorb
  • more energy from the fall by increasing the time interval
  • of the fall. Screamers can reduce shock loading in any
  • rescue system. The standard Screamer can effectively reduce
  • peak loads by 3-4kN in any climbing or rescue system.
  • YATES original Screamers were first developed over ten
  • years ago, YATES has since developed numerous variations
  • on the Screamer design for use in Aerospace, Military
  • and explosive testing for the deceleration of objects.
  • Screamers were originally designed to be used on less
  • than ideal climbing protection such as small nuts, old
  • 1/4" bolts, snow anchors or marginal protection. We have
  • determined that the most effective activation for a standard
  • screamer to be >2kN(550lbf.) for climbing related situations.
  • * The new SHORTY Screamer offers the exact same properties

  • as the standard Screamer in a more compactly packaged
  • unit. The new ZIPPER Screamer is designed for long falls
  • with high fall factors. These types of falls occur usually
  • within the first two or three protection placements that
  • are �run out�. Ice climbing is a good example where the
  • ZIPPER is exceptionally effective when used on the first
  • few placements. The ZIPPER can effectively reduce peak
  • loads by 6-8kn in any climbing system. Screamers and Zippers
  • have proven to be very successful in reducing loads to
  • any anchor when it is stressed in excess of the activation
  • force of the Screamer device. * When the Screamer activates,
  • the action of the stitch ripping produces a loud tearing
  • sound, indicating the system has reached the activation
  • point of the Screamer(>2 kN). The activation point of
  • a Screamer is consistently repeatable to +- 5% accuracy.
  • (Screamers are very useful in documenting maximum loads
  • in a given situation, such as their use in Rescue.) Screamers
  • can be combined in series to double or triple the total
  • absorption. Screamers can also be �ganged� to increase
  • activation force and absorption.

  • SCREAMERS
  • SCREAMERS
  • ITEM# 600$16.50
    * Standard SCREAMER, SHORTY, ICE-SCREAMS:
  • Activation: >2kN. Reduction in system peak loading 3-4kN.
  • Runner Strength: 26kN.
  • * ZIPPER Screamer: Activation: >2kN. Reduction in system
  • peak loading 4-8kN. Runner Strength:26kN.
  • * SCREM AIDS: Activation:>1.5kN. Reduction in system
  • peak loading 1.5-2kN. Runner Strength: 7kN. "use on
  • extremely marginal aid placements only"

  •    
  • "ZIPPER"
  • SCREAMER
  • Function:

  • Shock absorbing sling designed to reduce peak loads in
  • any climbing system!!

  • * Multi-functional energy absorbing device. Screamers
  • will provide added protection in climbing and rescue situations.
  • Screamers not only absorb energy directly because of the
  • stitch ripping effect, they also allow your rope to absorb
  • more energy from the fall by increasing the time interval
  • of the fall. Screamers can reduce shock loading in any
  • rescue system. The standard Screamer can effectively reduce
  • peak loads by 3-4kN in any climbing or rescue system.
  • YATES original Screamers were first developed over ten
  • years ago, YATES has since developed numerous variations
  • on the �Screamer� design for use in Aerospace, Military
  • and explosive testing for the deceleration of objects.
  • Screamers were originally designed to be used on less
  • than ideal climbing protection such as small nuts, old
  • 1/4" bolts, snow anchors or marginal protection. We have
  • determined that the most effective activation for a standard
  • screamer to be >2kN(550lbf.) for climbing related situations.
  • * The new SHORTY Screamer offers the exact same properties

  • as the standard Screamer in a more compactly packaged
  • unit. The new ZIPPER Screamer is designed for long falls
  • with high fall factors. These types of falls occur usually
  • within the first two or three protection placements that
  • are run out. Ice climbing is a good example where the
  • ZIPPER is exceptionally effective when used on the first
  • few placements. The ZIPPER can effectively reduce peak
  • loads by 6-8kn in any climbing system. Screamers and Zippers
  • have proven to be very successful in reducing loads to
  • any anchor when it is stressed in excess of the activation
  • force of the Screamer device. * When the Screamer activates,
  • the action of the stitch ripping produces a loud tearing
  • sound, indicating the system has reached the activation
  • point of the Screamer(>2 kN). The activation point of
  • a Screamer is consistently repeatable to +- 5% accuracy.
  • (Screamers are very useful in documenting maximum loads
  • in a given situation, such as their use in Rescue.) Screamers
  • can be combined in series to double or triple the total
  • absorption. Screamers can also be ganged to increase activation
  • force and absorption.

  • Small Zipper Screamer
  • ITEM# 602$30.00
    * Standard SCREAMER, SHORTY, ICE-SCREAMS:
  • Activation: >2kN. Reduction in system peak loading 3-4kN.
  • Runner Strength: 26kN.
  • * ZIPPER Screamer: Activation: >2kN. Reduction in system
  • peak loading 4-8kN. Runner Strength:26kN.
  • * SCREM AIDS: Activation:>1.5kN. Reduction in system
  • peak loading 1.5-2kN. Runner Strength: 7kN. "use on
  • extremely marginal aid placements only"

  •    
  • ICE-SCREAMS

    Function:

  • Shock absorbing sling designed to reduce peak loads in
  • any climbing system!!

  • * Multi-functional energy absorbing device.

  • Screamers will provide added protection in climbing and
  • rescue situations. Screamers not only absorb energy directly
  • because of the stitch ripping effect, they also allow
  • your rope to absorb more energy from the fall by increasing
  • the time interval of the fall. Screamers can reduce shock
  • loading in any rescue system. The standard Screamer can
  • effectively reduce peak loads by 3-4kN in any climbing
  • or rescue system. YATES original Screamers were first
  • developed over ten years ago, YATES has since developed
  • numerous variations on the Screamer design for use in
  • Aerospace, Military and explosive testing for the deceleration
  • of objects. Screamers were originally designed to be used
  • on less than ideal climbing protection such as small nuts,
  • old 1/4" bolts, snow anchors or marginal protection. We
  • have determined that the most effective activation for
  • a standard screamer to be >2kN(550lbf.) for climbing related
  • situations.


  • * ICE-SCREAM: Activation: >2kN. Reduction in system peak
  • loading 3-4kN. Runner Strength: 26kN. Ice-Scream offers
  • the same properties as the standard Screamer with the
  • addition of a convenient tie-off mechanism for ice screws.



  • ICE-SCREAMS
  • ICE-SCREAMS
  • ITEM# 605$18.00
     

  •    
  • SCREAM-AIDS

    Function:

  • Shock absorbing sling designed to reduce peak loads in
  • any climbing system!!

  • * Multi-functional energy absorbing device. Screamers
  • will provide added protection in climbing and rescue situations.
  • Screamers not only absorb energy directly because of the
  • stitch ripping effect, they also allow your rope to absorb
  • more energy from the fall by increasing the time interval
  • of the fall. Screamers can reduce shock loading in any
  • rescue system. The standard Screamer can effectively reduce
  • peak loads by 3-4kN in any climbing or rescue system.
  • YATES original Screamers were first developed over ten
  • years ago, YATES has since developed numerous variations
  • on the �Screamer� design for use in Aerospace, Military
  • and explosive testing for the deceleration of objects.
  • Screamers were originally designed to be used on less
  • than ideal climbing protection such as small nuts, old
  • 1/4" bolts, snow anchors or marginal protection. We have
  • determined that the most effective activation for a standard
  • screamer to be >2kN(550lbf.) for climbing related situations.
  • * The new SHORTY Screamer offers the exact same properties

  • as the standard Screamer in a more compactly packaged
  • unit. The new ZIPPER Screamer is designed for long falls
  • with high fall factors. These types of falls occur usually
  • within the first two or three protection placements that
  • are �run out�. Ice climbing is a good example where the
  • ZIPPER is exceptionally effective when used on the first
  • few placements. The ZIPPER can effectively reduce peak
  • loads by 6-8kn in any climbing system. Screamers and Zippers
  • have proven to be very successful in reducing loads to
  • any anchor when it is stressed in excess of the activation
  • force of the Screamer device. * When the Screamer activates,
  • the action of the stitch ripping produces a loud tearing
  • sound, indicating the system has reached the activation
  • point of the Screamer(>2 kN). The activation point of
  • a Screamer is consistently repeatable to +- 5% accuracy.
  • (Screamers are very useful in documenting maximum loads
  • in a given situation, such as their use in Rescue.) Screamers
  • can be combined in series to double or triple the total
  • absorption. Screamers can also be �ganged� to increase
  • activation force and absorption.

  • SCRESM-AIDS
  • SCRESM-AIDS
  • ITEM# 610$18.00
    * Standard SCREAMER, SHORTY, ICE-SCREAMS:
  • Activation: >2kN. Reduction in system peak loading 3-4kN.
  • Runner Strength: 26kN.
  • * ZIPPER Screamer: Activation: >2kN. Reduction in system
  • peak loading 4-8kN. Runner Strength:26kN.
  • * SCREM AIDS: Activation:>1.5kN. Reduction in system
  • peak loading 1.5-2kN. Runner Strength: 7kN. "use on
  • extremely marginal aid placements only"

  •    
  • SHORTY SCREAMS

    Function:

  • Shock absorbing sling designed to reduce peak loads in
  • any climbing system!!

  • * Multi-functional energy absorbing device. Screamers
  • will provide added protection in climbing and rescue situations.
  • Screamers not only absorb energy directly because of the
  • stitch ripping effect, they also allow your rope to absorb
  • more energy from the fall by increasing the time interval
  • of the fall. Screamers can reduce shock loading in any
  • rescue system. The standard Screames can effectively reduce
  • peak loads by 3-4kN in any climbing or rescue system.
  • YATES original Screamers were first developed over ten
  • years ago, YATES has since developed numerous variations
  • on the Screamer design for use in Aerospace, Military
  • and explosive testing for the deceleration of objects.
  • Screamers were originally designed to be used on less
  • than ideal climbing protection such as small nuts, old
  • 1/4" bolts, snow anchors or marginal protection. We have
  • determined that the most effective activation for a standard
  • screamer to be >2kN(550lbf.) for climbing related situations.
  • * The new SHORTY Screamer offers the exact same properties

  • as the standard Screamer in a more compactly packaged
  • unit. The new ZIPPER Screamer is designed for long falls
  • with high fall factors. These types of falls occur usually
  • within the first two or three protection placements that
  • are run out. Ice climbing is a good example where the
  • ZIPPER is exceptionally effective when used on the first
  • few placements. The ZIPPER can effectively reduce peak
  • loads by 6-8kn in any climbing system. Screamers and Zippers
  • have proven to be very successful in reducing loads to
  • any anchor when it is stressed in excess of the activation
  • force of the Screamer device. * When the Screamer activates,
  • the action of the stitch ripping produces a loud tearing
  • sound, indicating the system has reached the activation
  • point of the Screamer(>2 kN). The activation point of
  • a Screamer is consistently repeatable to +- 5% accuracy.
  • (Screamers are very useful in documenting maximum loads
  • in a given situation, such as their use in Rescue.) Screamers
  • can be combined in series to double or triple the total
  • absorption. Screamers can also be �ganged� to increase
  • activation force and absorption.

  • Shorty
  • ITEM# 601$21.50
    * Standard SCREAMER, SHORTY, ICE-SCREAMS:
  • Activation: >2kN. Reduction in system peak loading 3-4kN.
  • Runner Strength: 26kN.
  • * ZIPPER Screamer: Activation: >2kN. Reduction in system
  • peak loading 4-8kN. Runner Strength:26kN.
  • * SCREAM AIDS: Activation:>1.5kN. Reduction in system
  • peak loading 1.5-2kN. Runner Strength: 7kN. "use on
  • extremely marginal aid placements only"

    SCREAMER, SHORTY, ZIPPER & SCREAM-AIDS

  • Specifications and examples of use.

  • FALL FACTOR
    ROPE IN SYSTEM
    FALL DISTANCE
    IMPACT FORCE
  • TO CLIMBER
  • IMPACT FORCE
  • TO ANCHOR w/out SCREAMER
  • IMPACT FORCE
  • TO ANCHOR with SCREAMER & SHORTY
  • IMPACT FORCE
  • TO ANCHOR with ZIPPER SCREAMER
  • 210m20m9kN9kN6kN3kN
    1.9910m19m8.9kN15kN12kN9kN
    1.710m17m8kN14kN11kN8kN
    1.510m15m8kN13kN10kN7kN
    110m10m6kN11kN7kN5kN
    .520m10m5kN8kN5kN2kN
    .3330m10m4kN7kN4kN2kN
    .2540m10m3.7kN6.3kN3kN2kN
    .12540m5m3kN5kN2kN2kN
    .140m4m2.8kN4.6kN2kN2kN
    .0540m2m2.3kN3.8kN2kN2kN
  • SCREAMER, SHORTY, ZIPPER & SCREAM AID Specifications:
  • Force needed for activation of a Screamer is >2kN. 
  • Standard Screamer and Shorty Screamer reduce peak forces on protection
  • anchors by 3-4kN. 
  • Zipper Screamer reduces peak force on protection anchors by 6-7kN. 
  • Force needed for activation of a Scream-Aid is >1.5kN , they can absorb
  • 1.5-2kN making them useful for only the most marginal placements.

  • UIAA recommends that protection devices hold the following loads.
  • Ice Screws-8kN
  • Friends-10kN(Mfg. range 7-14kN).
  • Pitons-12kN
  • Wire Nuts-12kn(Mfg. range 10-12kN).
  • RP-2kn(Mfg range 2-10kN).
  • Slings-22kN
  • Maximum impact force allowed on climbing Dynamic rope 6-9kn(Depending
  • on size, 10.5mm=9kN).
  • Maximum impact force generate to running belay(Protection Anchors) is
  • 15 kn. 1kN=225lbf.

  • Here are some useful examples where Screamers and Zippers are most effective.
  • 1) Any high fall factor falls. FF=.5-2(Use ZIPPERS).
  • 2) Moderate FF falls on marginal protection. FF=.25-1 (Use Screamers
  • or Shorty).
  • 3) Very low FF Falls on very marginal protection. FF=.1 and below -Use
  • SCREAM-AIDS 

  • Example 1:
  • An Ice climber 175lb (80kg) has climbed 33ft(10m) above his belay. The
  • climber places an Ice screw at 17ft(5m) above the belay. In the process
  • of placing his second Ice Screw he slips and falls!! The climber placed
  • a ZIPPER Screamer on his first piece of protection, which was 17ft(5m)
  • above the belayer. The climber comes to rest next to his belayer, a
  • little shaken but ok, the Ice Screw held the fall! 
  • This was a Fall Factor 1 fall thus generating a force of 11kN to the
  • Ice Screw. A Fall Factor 1 is a very substantial fall. Ice screws have
  • a rated strength in the 8kN range. With out the use of a ZIPPER Screamer
  • in this situation the Ice Screw would have surely failed. This would
  • have resulted in the climber falling an additional 33ft(10m) coming
  • to rest well below the belayer. This type of fall could have severe
  • and fatal consequences. The use of a ZIPPER Screamer in this case reduced
  • the peak force on the first Ice Screw placement from 11kN to 5kN. 
  • In this same situation the use of a standard Screamer would have reduced
  • the peak force on the Ice Screw placement from 11kN to 7kN. The use
  • of a standard Screamer or a ZIPPER Screamer would have resulted in a
  • similar outcome, as the Ice Screw should hold an 8kN peak load. In this
  • situation a less than perfect Ice screw placement or a tied off Ice
  • Screw would probably not hold unless the ZIPPER Screamer was applied. 


  • Example 2:
  • A Rock climber 175lb(80kg) has climbed 100ft(30m) above his belay. He
  • placed six various protection anchors, SLCD's, wired nuts, and clipped
  • a couple bolts. He is now at the 5.9 crux of this climb. The crack is
  • very thin and our climber can only find a placement for a #3 RP(Rated
  • at 5kN). Being a novas climber, but having a rack of all the cool gear
  • he opts to place a shinny new SHORTY Screamer to this RP. The climber
  • now tries for the crux move; at this point he is 8ft(2.5m) above the
  • RP. He falls. Will the RP hold his fall??? 
  • The climber comes to rest 16.5ft(5m) below the crux move. This was a
  • Fall Factor .33 fall thus generating a force of 7kN to the protection
  • point with the #3RP. A #3 RP is has a rated strength of 5kN. A Fall
  • Factor .33 is a very moderate fall, but with out the use of the Screamer
  • the RP would surely have failed. This would have resulted in the climber
  • falling an additional amount to his last piece of protection(If it held!).
  • The use of a Screamer in this case reduced the peak force on the RP
  • placement from 7kN to 4kN, resulting in the placement holding. In this
  • same situation the use a ZIPPER Screamer could have reduced the peak
  • force on the RP placement from 7kN to 2kN. The ZIPPER could have allowed
  • a #0(strength 2.2kN) or #1 RP(strength 3.6kN) to have a high probability
  • of holding. 


  • Example 3:
  • An Aid climber 175lb(80kg) has climbed 132ft(40m) above his belay. The
  • climber placed 12 various protection anchors, SLD, wired nuts, clipping
  • a few bolts and pounding a tied off pin. He is now at very thin spot
  • in the crack and can only find a placement for a #1 RP(Rated at 3.6kN).
  • The placement is solid but our experienced aid climber knows it can
  • only hold about 800lbf(3.6kN). He opts to place a SHORTY Screamer to
  • the #1 RP. The climber now works his way to the top step of his Etriers
  • and places a #2 copperhead. At this point he is 6.5ft(2m) above the
  • #1RP. He tests his #2 Copperhead and transfers his weight to the Copper
  • Head, it pulls!!! Will the #1RP with the SHORTY Screamer attached fail
  • or hold?
  • This fall generated a Fall Factor .1 thus generating a force of 1,000lbf(4.6kN)
  • to the protection point with the #1 RP. Fall Factor .1 is a very light
  • fall, but the #1RP is not very strong!! A #1 RP is has a rated strength
  • of 3.6kN. With out the use of the Screamer the RP would probably have
  • failed. This would have resulted in the climber falling an additional
  • amount to his last piece of protection(If it held!). The use of a Screamer
  • in this situation reduced the peak force on the #1 RP placement from
  • 4.6kN to 2kN, resulting in the placement holding. The minimum force
  • needed for activation of a Screamer is >2kn. In this situation the SHORTY
  • Screamer could have theoretically reduced the peak force on the RP placement
  • from 4.6kN to 1.5kN. The minimum activation needed for Screamer is >2kN
  • therefore the Screamer in this situation only opened up about 80% or
  • 8.5 of the 11" possible full exhaustion of the Screamer. 

  • Example 4:
  • An Aid climber 175lb(80kg) has climbed 132ft(40m) above his belay. The
  • climber placed 12 various protection anchors, SLCD's, wired nuts, clipping
  • a few bolts and pounding a tied off pin. He is now at very thin spot
  • in the crack and can only find a placement for a #0 RP. Even though
  • the placement seems good our experienced aid climber knows it can only
  • hold about 600lbf(2.2kN). He opts to place a SCREAM-AID instead of a
  • SHORTY Screamer to this #0 RP. The SCREAM-AID was chosen because the
  • force needed for activation of a standard Screamer is >2 which is the
  • above the breaking strength of the #0 RP. 
  • The climber now works his way to the second step of his Etriers and
  • places a #0 copperhead. At this point he is 3.3ft(1m) above the #0RP.
  • He tests his #0 Copperhead and transfers his weight to the Copper Head,
  • it pulls!!! Will the #0 RP with the SCREAM-AID attached fail or hold?
  • This fall generated a Fall Factor .05 thus generating a force of 850lbf(3.8kN)
  • to the protection point with the #0 RP. Fall Factor .05 is a very light
  • fall, but the #0 RP is also a really weak placement. A #0 RP has a rated
  • strength of 2.2kN. This would have resulted in the climber falling an
  • additional amount to his last piece of protection(If it held!). The
  • use of a SCREAM-AID in this case reduced the peak force on the RP placement
  • from 3.8kN to 1.8kN, resulting in the placement holding. The minimum
  • force needed for activation of a SCREAM-AID is >1.5kn.





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