Yates Screamers

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Yates Screamers

Yates Screamers, Scream Aids and Ice Screams

Item#	Item Name	Our Price	Qty	Add
yat605	Yates Ice Screams	$18.00	(Out of Stock)
yat610	Yates Scream Aids	$18.00
yat600	Yates Screamers	$16.50
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Features:

SCREAMERS

Function:

Shock absorbing sling designed to reduce peak loads in

any climbing system!!

* Multi-functional energy absorbing device. Screamers

will provide added protection in climbing and rescue situations.

Screamers not only absorb energy directly because of the

stitch ripping effect, they also allow your rope to absorb

more energy from the fall by increasing the time interval

of the fall. Screamers can reduce shock loading in any

rescue system. The standard Screamer can effectively reduce

peak loads by 3-4kN in any climbing or rescue system.

YATES original Screamers were first developed over ten

years ago, YATES has since developed numerous variations

on the Screamer design for use in Aerospace, Military

and explosive testing for the deceleration of objects.

Screamers were originally designed to be used on less

than ideal climbing protection such as small nuts, old

1/4" bolts, snow anchors or marginal protection. We have

determined that the most effective activation for a standard

screamer to be >2kN(550lbf.) for climbing related situations.

* The new SHORTY Screamer offers the exact same properties

as the standard Screamer in a more compactly packaged

unit. The new ZIPPER Screamer is designed for long falls

with high fall factors. These types of falls occur usually

within the first two or three protection placements that

are �run out�. Ice climbing is a good example where the

ZIPPER is exceptionally effective when used on the first

few placements. The ZIPPER can effectively reduce peak

loads by 6-8kn in any climbing system. Screamers and Zippers

have proven to be very successful in reducing loads to

any anchor when it is stressed in excess of the activation

force of the Screamer device. * When the Screamer activates,

the action of the stitch ripping produces a loud tearing

sound, indicating the system has reached the activation

point of the Screamer(>2 kN). The activation point of

a Screamer is consistently repeatable to +- 5% accuracy.

(Screamers are very useful in documenting maximum loads

in a given situation, such as their use in Rescue.) Screamers

can be combined in series to double or triple the total

absorption. Screamers can also be �ganged� to increase

activation force and absorption.

ITEM# 600

$16.50

* Standard SCREAMER, SHORTY, ICE-SCREAMS:

Activation: >2kN. Reduction in system peak loading 3-4kN.

Runner Strength: 26kN.

* ZIPPER Screamer: Activation: >2kN. Reduction in system

peak loading 4-8kN. Runner Strength:26kN.

* SCREM AIDS: Activation:>1.5kN. Reduction in system

peak loading 1.5-2kN. Runner Strength: 7kN. "use on

extremely marginal aid placements only"

"ZIPPER"

SCREAMER

Function:

Shock absorbing sling designed to reduce peak loads in

any climbing system!!

* Multi-functional energy absorbing device. Screamers

will provide added protection in climbing and rescue situations.

Screamers not only absorb energy directly because of the

stitch ripping effect, they also allow your rope to absorb

more energy from the fall by increasing the time interval

of the fall. Screamers can reduce shock loading in any

rescue system. The standard Screamer can effectively reduce

peak loads by 3-4kN in any climbing or rescue system.

YATES original Screamers were first developed over ten

years ago, YATES has since developed numerous variations

on the �Screamer� design for use in Aerospace, Military

and explosive testing for the deceleration of objects.

Screamers were originally designed to be used on less

than ideal climbing protection such as small nuts, old

1/4" bolts, snow anchors or marginal protection. We have

determined that the most effective activation for a standard

screamer to be >2kN(550lbf.) for climbing related situations.

* The new SHORTY Screamer offers the exact same properties

as the standard Screamer in a more compactly packaged

unit. The new ZIPPER Screamer is designed for long falls

with high fall factors. These types of falls occur usually

within the first two or three protection placements that

are run out. Ice climbing is a good example where the

ZIPPER is exceptionally effective when used on the first

few placements. The ZIPPER can effectively reduce peak

loads by 6-8kn in any climbing system. Screamers and Zippers

have proven to be very successful in reducing loads to

any anchor when it is stressed in excess of the activation

force of the Screamer device. * When the Screamer activates,

the action of the stitch ripping produces a loud tearing

sound, indicating the system has reached the activation

point of the Screamer(>2 kN). The activation point of

a Screamer is consistently repeatable to +- 5% accuracy.

(Screamers are very useful in documenting maximum loads

in a given situation, such as their use in Rescue.) Screamers

can be combined in series to double or triple the total

absorption. Screamers can also be ganged to increase activation

force and absorption.

ITEM# 602

$30.00

* Standard SCREAMER, SHORTY, ICE-SCREAMS:

Activation: >2kN. Reduction in system peak loading 3-4kN.

Runner Strength: 26kN.

* ZIPPER Screamer: Activation: >2kN. Reduction in system

peak loading 4-8kN. Runner Strength:26kN.

* SCREM AIDS: Activation:>1.5kN. Reduction in system

peak loading 1.5-2kN. Runner Strength: 7kN. "use on

extremely marginal aid placements only"

ICE-SCREAMS

Function:

Shock absorbing sling designed to reduce peak loads in

any climbing system!!

* Multi-functional energy absorbing device.

Screamers will provide added protection in climbing and

rescue situations. Screamers not only absorb energy directly

because of the stitch ripping effect, they also allow

your rope to absorb more energy from the fall by increasing

the time interval of the fall. Screamers can reduce shock

loading in any rescue system. The standard Screamer can

effectively reduce peak loads by 3-4kN in any climbing

or rescue system. YATES original Screamers were first

developed over ten years ago, YATES has since developed

numerous variations on the Screamer design for use in

Aerospace, Military and explosive testing for the deceleration

of objects. Screamers were originally designed to be used

on less than ideal climbing protection such as small nuts,

old 1/4" bolts, snow anchors or marginal protection. We

have determined that the most effective activation for

a standard screamer to be >2kN(550lbf.) for climbing related

situations.

* ICE-SCREAM: Activation: >2kN. Reduction in system peak

loading 3-4kN. Runner Strength: 26kN. Ice-Scream offers

the same properties as the standard Screamer with the

addition of a convenient tie-off mechanism for ice screws.

ITEM# 605

$18.00

SCREAM-AIDS

Function:

Shock absorbing sling designed to reduce peak loads in

any climbing system!!

* Multi-functional energy absorbing device. Screamers

will provide added protection in climbing and rescue situations.

Screamers not only absorb energy directly because of the

stitch ripping effect, they also allow your rope to absorb

more energy from the fall by increasing the time interval

of the fall. Screamers can reduce shock loading in any

rescue system. The standard Screamer can effectively reduce

peak loads by 3-4kN in any climbing or rescue system.

YATES original Screamers were first developed over ten

years ago, YATES has since developed numerous variations

on the �Screamer� design for use in Aerospace, Military

and explosive testing for the deceleration of objects.

Screamers were originally designed to be used on less

than ideal climbing protection such as small nuts, old

1/4" bolts, snow anchors or marginal protection. We have

determined that the most effective activation for a standard

screamer to be >2kN(550lbf.) for climbing related situations.

* The new SHORTY Screamer offers the exact same properties

as the standard Screamer in a more compactly packaged

unit. The new ZIPPER Screamer is designed for long falls

with high fall factors. These types of falls occur usually

within the first two or three protection placements that

are �run out�. Ice climbing is a good example where the

ZIPPER is exceptionally effective when used on the first

few placements. The ZIPPER can effectively reduce peak

loads by 6-8kn in any climbing system. Screamers and Zippers

have proven to be very successful in reducing loads to

any anchor when it is stressed in excess of the activation

force of the Screamer device. * When the Screamer activates,

the action of the stitch ripping produces a loud tearing

sound, indicating the system has reached the activation

point of the Screamer(>2 kN). The activation point of

a Screamer is consistently repeatable to +- 5% accuracy.

(Screamers are very useful in documenting maximum loads

in a given situation, such as their use in Rescue.) Screamers

can be combined in series to double or triple the total

absorption. Screamers can also be �ganged� to increase

activation force and absorption.

ITEM# 610

$18.00

* Standard SCREAMER, SHORTY, ICE-SCREAMS:

Activation: >2kN. Reduction in system peak loading 3-4kN.

Runner Strength: 26kN.

* ZIPPER Screamer: Activation: >2kN. Reduction in system

peak loading 4-8kN. Runner Strength:26kN.

* SCREM AIDS: Activation:>1.5kN. Reduction in system

peak loading 1.5-2kN. Runner Strength: 7kN. "use on

extremely marginal aid placements only"

SHORTY SCREAMS

Function:

Shock absorbing sling designed to reduce peak loads in

any climbing system!!

* Multi-functional energy absorbing device. Screamers

will provide added protection in climbing and rescue situations.

Screamers not only absorb energy directly because of the

stitch ripping effect, they also allow your rope to absorb

more energy from the fall by increasing the time interval

of the fall. Screamers can reduce shock loading in any

rescue system. The standard Screames can effectively reduce

peak loads by 3-4kN in any climbing or rescue system.

YATES original Screamers were first developed over ten

years ago, YATES has since developed numerous variations

on the Screamer design for use in Aerospace, Military

and explosive testing for the deceleration of objects.

Screamers were originally designed to be used on less

than ideal climbing protection such as small nuts, old

1/4" bolts, snow anchors or marginal protection. We have

determined that the most effective activation for a standard

screamer to be >2kN(550lbf.) for climbing related situations.

* The new SHORTY Screamer offers the exact same properties

as the standard Screamer in a more compactly packaged

unit. The new ZIPPER Screamer is designed for long falls

with high fall factors. These types of falls occur usually

within the first two or three protection placements that

are run out. Ice climbing is a good example where the

ZIPPER is exceptionally effective when used on the first

few placements. The ZIPPER can effectively reduce peak

loads by 6-8kn in any climbing system. Screamers and Zippers

have proven to be very successful in reducing loads to

any anchor when it is stressed in excess of the activation

force of the Screamer device. * When the Screamer activates,

the action of the stitch ripping produces a loud tearing

sound, indicating the system has reached the activation

point of the Screamer(>2 kN). The activation point of

a Screamer is consistently repeatable to +- 5% accuracy.

(Screamers are very useful in documenting maximum loads

in a given situation, such as their use in Rescue.) Screamers

can be combined in series to double or triple the total

absorption. Screamers can also be �ganged� to increase

activation force and absorption.

ITEM# 601

$21.50

* Standard SCREAMER, SHORTY, ICE-SCREAMS:

Activation: >2kN. Reduction in system peak loading 3-4kN.

Runner Strength: 26kN.

* ZIPPER Screamer: Activation: >2kN. Reduction in system

peak loading 4-8kN. Runner Strength:26kN.

* SCREAM AIDS: Activation:>1.5kN. Reduction in system

peak loading 1.5-2kN. Runner Strength: 7kN. "use on

extremely marginal aid placements only"

SCREAMER, SHORTY, ZIPPER & SCREAM-AIDS

Specifications and examples of use.

FALL FACTOR	ROPE IN SYSTEM	FALL DISTANCE	IMPACT FORCE TO CLIMBER	IMPACT FORCE TO ANCHOR w/out SCREAMER	IMPACT FORCE TO ANCHOR with SCREAMER & SHORTY	IMPACT FORCE TO ANCHOR with ZIPPER SCREAMER
2	10m	20m	9kN	9kN	6kN	3kN
1.99	10m	19m	8.9kN	15kN	12kN	9kN
1.7	10m	17m	8kN	14kN	11kN	8kN
1.5	10m	15m	8kN	13kN	10kN	7kN
1	10m	10m	6kN	11kN	7kN	5kN
.5	20m	10m	5kN	8kN	5kN	2kN
.33	30m	10m	4kN	7kN	4kN	2kN
.25	40m	10m	3.7kN	6.3kN	3kN	2kN
.125	40m	5m	3kN	5kN	2kN	2kN
.1	40m	4m	2.8kN	4.6kN	2kN	2kN
.05	40m	2m	2.3kN	3.8kN	2kN	2kN

SCREAMER, SHORTY, ZIPPER & SCREAM AID Specifications:

Force needed for activation of a Screamer is >2kN.

Standard Screamer and Shorty Screamer reduce peak forces on protection

anchors by 3-4kN.

Zipper Screamer reduces peak force on protection anchors by 6-7kN.

Force needed for activation of a Scream-Aid is >1.5kN , they can absorb

1.5-2kN making them useful for only the most marginal placements.

UIAA recommends that protection devices hold the following loads.

Ice Screws-8kN

Friends-10kN(Mfg. range 7-14kN).

Pitons-12kN

Wire Nuts-12kn(Mfg. range 10-12kN).

RP-2kn(Mfg range 2-10kN).

Slings-22kN

Maximum impact force allowed on climbing Dynamic rope 6-9kn(Depending

on size, 10.5mm=9kN).

Maximum impact force generate to running belay(Protection Anchors) is

15 kn. 1kN=225lbf.

Here are some useful examples where Screamers and Zippers are most effective.

1) Any high fall factor falls. FF=.5-2(Use ZIPPERS).

2) Moderate FF falls on marginal protection. FF=.25-1 (Use Screamers

or Shorty).

3) Very low FF Falls on very marginal protection. FF=.1 and below -Use

SCREAM-AIDS

Example 1:

An Ice climber 175lb (80kg) has climbed 33ft(10m) above his belay. The

climber places an Ice screw at 17ft(5m) above the belay. In the process

of placing his second Ice Screw he slips and falls!! The climber placed

a ZIPPER Screamer on his first piece of protection, which was 17ft(5m)

above the belayer. The climber comes to rest next to his belayer, a

little shaken but ok, the Ice Screw held the fall!

This was a Fall Factor 1 fall thus generating a force of 11kN to the

Ice Screw. A Fall Factor 1 is a very substantial fall. Ice screws have

a rated strength in the 8kN range. With out the use of a ZIPPER Screamer

in this situation the Ice Screw would have surely failed. This would

have resulted in the climber falling an additional 33ft(10m) coming

to rest well below the belayer. This type of fall could have severe

and fatal consequences. The use of a ZIPPER Screamer in this case reduced

the peak force on the first Ice Screw placement from 11kN to 5kN.

In this same situation the use of a standard Screamer would have reduced

the peak force on the Ice Screw placement from 11kN to 7kN. The use

of a standard Screamer or a ZIPPER Screamer would have resulted in a

similar outcome, as the Ice Screw should hold an 8kN peak load. In this

situation a less than perfect Ice screw placement or a tied off Ice

Screw would probably not hold unless the ZIPPER Screamer was applied.

Example 2:

A Rock climber 175lb(80kg) has climbed 100ft(30m) above his belay. He

placed six various protection anchors, SLCD's, wired nuts, and clipped

a couple bolts. He is now at the 5.9 crux of this climb. The crack is

very thin and our climber can only find a placement for a #3 RP(Rated

at 5kN). Being a novas climber, but having a rack of all the cool gear

he opts to place a shinny new SHORTY Screamer to this RP. The climber

now tries for the crux move; at this point he is 8ft(2.5m) above the

RP. He falls. Will the RP hold his fall???

The climber comes to rest 16.5ft(5m) below the crux move. This was a

Fall Factor .33 fall thus generating a force of 7kN to the protection

point with the #3RP. A #3 RP is has a rated strength of 5kN. A Fall

Factor .33 is a very moderate fall, but with out the use of the Screamer

the RP would surely have failed. This would have resulted in the climber

falling an additional amount to his last piece of protection(If it held!).

The use of a Screamer in this case reduced the peak force on the RP

placement from 7kN to 4kN, resulting in the placement holding. In this

same situation the use a ZIPPER Screamer could have reduced the peak

force on the RP placement from 7kN to 2kN. The ZIPPER could have allowed

a #0(strength 2.2kN) or #1 RP(strength 3.6kN) to have a high probability

of holding.

Example 3:

An Aid climber 175lb(80kg) has climbed 132ft(40m) above his belay. The

climber placed 12 various protection anchors, SLD, wired nuts, clipping

a few bolts and pounding a tied off pin. He is now at very thin spot

in the crack and can only find a placement for a #1 RP(Rated at 3.6kN).

The placement is solid but our experienced aid climber knows it can

only hold about 800lbf(3.6kN). He opts to place a SHORTY Screamer to

the #1 RP. The climber now works his way to the top step of his Etriers

and places a #2 copperhead. At this point he is 6.5ft(2m) above the

#1RP. He tests his #2 Copperhead and transfers his weight to the Copper

Head, it pulls!!! Will the #1RP with the SHORTY Screamer attached fail

or hold?

This fall generated a Fall Factor .1 thus generating a force of 1,000lbf(4.6kN)

to the protection point with the #1 RP. Fall Factor .1 is a very light

fall, but the #1RP is not very strong!! A #1 RP is has a rated strength

of 3.6kN. With out the use of the Screamer the RP would probably have

failed. This would have resulted in the climber falling an additional

amount to his last piece of protection(If it held!). The use of a Screamer

in this situation reduced the peak force on the #1 RP placement from

4.6kN to 2kN, resulting in the placement holding. The minimum force

needed for activation of a Screamer is >2kn. In this situation the SHORTY

Screamer could have theoretically reduced the peak force on the RP placement

from 4.6kN to 1.5kN. The minimum activation needed for Screamer is >2kN

therefore the Screamer in this situation only opened up about 80% or

8.5 of the 11" possible full exhaustion of the Screamer.

Example 4:

An Aid climber 175lb(80kg) has climbed 132ft(40m) above his belay. The

climber placed 12 various protection anchors, SLCD's, wired nuts, clipping

a few bolts and pounding a tied off pin. He is now at very thin spot

in the crack and can only find a placement for a #0 RP. Even though

the placement seems good our experienced aid climber knows it can only

hold about 600lbf(2.2kN). He opts to place a SCREAM-AID instead of a

SHORTY Screamer to this #0 RP. The SCREAM-AID was chosen because the

force needed for activation of a standard Screamer is >2 which is the

above the breaking strength of the #0 RP.

The climber now works his way to the second step of his Etriers and

places a #0 copperhead. At this point he is 3.3ft(1m) above the #0RP.

He tests his #0 Copperhead and transfers his weight to the Copper Head,

it pulls!!! Will the #0 RP with the SCREAM-AID attached fail or hold?

This fall generated a Fall Factor .05 thus generating a force of 850lbf(3.8kN)

to the protection point with the #0 RP. Fall Factor .05 is a very light

fall, but the #0 RP is also a really weak placement. A #0 RP has a rated

strength of 2.2kN. This would have resulted in the climber falling an

additional amount to his last piece of protection(If it held!). The

use of a SCREAM-AID in this case reduced the peak force on the RP placement

from 3.8kN to 1.8kN, resulting in the placement holding. The minimum

force needed for activation of a SCREAM-AID is >1.5kn.

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